Tempting kebabs, scented biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has long been a dream destination for epicures, with locals and visitors equally celebrating its exquisite cuisine.
An International Accolade
Recently, UNESCO designated it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – placing it on a exclusive list of global cities and sparking hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this status, it joins a international community of more than four hundred cities across more than 100 countries committed to promoting "innovation as a catalyst of sustainable urban development".
The honor "is a testament to its deep-rooted culinary traditions and dynamic gastronomic culture," as stated by a spokesperson from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to secure a position in this highly sought-after list of seventy urban centers worldwide.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The recognition for this time-honored city arrives as no surprise to its inhabitants or dedicated food lovers. Many agree with the sentiment that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO recognition, this adored, bustling, and vibrant city – the administrative center of India's largest state – is finally in the spotlight for what has perennially characterized its heart: an immense love for food.
"'The day's menu, how will it be cooked' is a continued discussion from morning until night in many homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are actually evaluated by the quality of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of Nawabs – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th Century affluent Muslim rulers – is noted for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were created, refined, and taken to extraordinary levels in their imperial kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were epicenters of food experimentation, blending Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were fashioned. Legend has it that the galouti kebab was created to cater to an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His cooks minced the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so fine that it required no chewing.
But arguably the most significant contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, slow heat, with the container's cover securely sealed with dough.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Apart from the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a vegetarian's paradise.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only showcases local ingredients but also offers the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Almost on countless corners, there are small establishments and stalls – hidden treasures that are immensely popular with the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, large gatherings start milling around from early morning at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, presented in clay glasses, along with pillowy soft buns lathered with freshly churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can make their way to a no-frills joint situated in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was set up, the place is still highly popular for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also presents unique treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert available in the winter. The technique of making it is scientific and demanding. The vendor hand-churns the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its incredible frothy texture.
On cold mornings, street vendors line up in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some however say that their children are unwilling to learn the art.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's rich food legacy positions it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – shaped by multi-generational food businesses, from modest street carts to lively restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is believed, will inspire more people around the world to learn these tales and experience the city to savour the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
